Forest or Jungle Cacti

by Deborah Wisniewska-Jones

Reprinted from Cactus Factus, newsletter of the Toronto Cactus and Succulent Society, November 1999

Epiphyllum—A genus of 16 species of mostly epiphytic cactus native to tropical America. They have numerous branches formed of short, flattened, bright green joints, and they have large, showy, often fragrant flowers. Commonly known as orchid cactus or pond-lily cactus. Epiphyte—In botany, a plant that grows on another but does not derive its nourishment from it, such as many ferns, orchids and bromeliads. Epiphytic—Pertaining to or having the nature of an epiphyte.

Epiphyllum History

The first record of these plants was in 1753, cuttings were brought back to Europe by the early navigators to South and Central America. In 1812 Englishman Adrian H.. Haworth (the same for whom the Haworthia genus was named) first described 'Epiphyllum phyllanthus' and 'Epiphyllum' became a valid name for a Genus. This name 'Epiphyllum' took the place of 'Cactus Phyllanthus', which was the name originally given by Linnaeus. In 1819, Haworth discovered a new type of Epiphyte, which he called 'Epiphyllum truncatum'. In 1831 Germany, Link, coined the name 'Phyllocactus' ('Phyllum' meaning a leaf), using it instead of 'Epiphyllum' to describe all epiphytes, but it wasn't used by most people as they thought 'Epiphyllum' and 'Phyllocactus' were synonymous, and preferred 'Epiphyllum'. But he kept the name 'Epiphyllum truncatum' for Haworth's plant in 1819. This nomenclature stood until 1923 when Britton and Rose took the name 'Epiphyllum' for the 12 (or 16) original species. Then came Karl Schumann who brought in the name 'Zygocactus' which applies to the 'Christmas cactus' Zygocactus truncatus.

The earliest hybrids recorded were made by Jenkinson and Smith in 1830 England, the Germans and French were the next. The original crosses were made with Heliocereus specious (hee-lee-oh-sehr-ee-uhs) and Nopalxochia (noh-puhlks-oh-shee-uh) phyllanthoides (feh-lahn-thuh-oids). In 1840 Epiphyllum crenatum which flowers on the tips of it stems was brought to France and crossed with Heliocereus specious, many new flowers from light yellowish-white and rose shade to orange and deep amber were obtained. In 1890 Johannes Nicolai at his nursery in Dresden hybridized Schlumbergera, Zygocactus and Rhipsalis and introduced 300 new 'Epiphyllum hybrids. But due to a shortage of coal during World War 1 he lost all his plants froze.

In 1930 H. M. Wegener of L. A. California imported Epiphyllum hybrids into America, he built up a collection of several hundreds. Many more Americans realized that a lot more could be done to produce more hybrids in this warm climate than in Europe and slowly the hybridization work shifted back to America, but this time California. The Epiphyllum Society of America was founded in 1940 and it has established the fact that one of the original homes of these plants was along the western coastline of the USA

Most of the blooms of the 16 true 'Epiphyllum' species are fragrant and all have white flowers, through some of the outer petals have tinges of yellow, cream and strawcolor. E. cooperi flower from the base of the plant, the buds develop slowly at first and may take up to 10 weeks to open. These plants that came from the dense tropical forests of Central and So. Amer. live in humid jungle conditions. They live high in the crotches of trees, in pockets of humus, getting partial sun or shade under the swaying branches of the trees. Their branches are jointed with areoles in the sunken crenations (kree-nayt-shuns) of the edges of the stem. The main stems are usually round and woody at the base and then become flat or triangular, (both flat and triangular stems may grow on the same plant), some branches start out triangular and become flat or vice-versa. Epiphyllums don't have any true leaves and have a wax-like outer skin to prevent evaporation. Like any other cacti they expand and contract depending on the amount of water around. Branches may be up to 15 ft long and 8 inches across, but most are about 3 inches across. During down pours, rain is quickly absorbed and stored in the branches and stems, the roots retain enough moisture to keep the fine roots from drying out. They do not spread their roots like normal cacti do and their roots live in a very small confined area. They do have air roots and these feed the joints that are the furthest away from the roots. Living in the trees as they do and only getting sun from the swaying branches they remain in sufficient shade to keep them from drying out. Their roots are anchored in the humus that is caught in the fissures of the bark, their roots may be short and fine but are strong enough to support their branches which may hang down for 10 or 15 feet. The humidity may be over 90% in this dark atmosphere but as they grow high up, well above the wet ground, they have good drainage, keeping them damp but not water-logged.

What we call epiphyllum today are actually hybrids of the epiphytic cacti species native to the jungles of So. and Central Amer. and Mexico. The name Epiphyllum, epi means "upon" and phyllum means "leaf", because they produced flowers on their leaf-like stems. But they have no leaves, these are actually thickened stems or branches, most are flat but some grown in a triangular shape. Epiphyllums are not covered with spines, but have hair bristles or tiny spines in the areolar, some more than others.

Note: 'Night Blooming Cereus' is not a cereus at all but Epiphyllum Oxypetalum. The flowers of a Cereus resemble the Epiphyllum Oxypetalum. While the bud is forming, it grows pointing downward, a few days before it blooms the bud starts to point upward. The bud opens around 10:00 pm and dies around 8:00 am the next morning.

Other Epiphytic Species

(The following was taken directly from Myron Kimnach list "The Species of Epiphytic Cacti which was published in the Epiphyllum Society of America's Directory.)

The species in the ancestry of epiphytic cactus hybrids are nearly all tree dwelling (epiphytic), though few also grow on cliffs or rocks (saxicolous sak-sihk-uh-luhs). Unlike the better known terrestrial desert cacti, these epiphytes are generally native to forested areas, either perched in the trees with other epiphytes, such as orchids and bromeliads, or rooted in the ground and climbing up tree trunks, to which they adhere by means of aerial roots.

Epiphyllum: Haworth. 1812

About 12 species of scandent (skahn-duhnt meaning climbing)-pendent cacti distributed throughout most of Latin America. Stems flat or apically. Flowers usually nocturnal, rarely diurnal (staying open all day, as in E. crenatum and E. laui), funnelform, white to yellowish.

Aporocactus (a-por-oh-kak-tuhs): Lemaire. 1860

Two species of epiphytic or saxicolous ( sak-sihk-uh-luh), vining cacti with cylindrical, many ribbed, densely spiny stems. In cultivation, plants are usually grown in hanging containers so the stems are pendent. Flowers tubular, spiny, expanded apically, more or less unsymmetrical, petals red or purplish. Popular name: Rat-tail cacti". The genus is close to Heliocereus (hee-lee-oh-sehr-ee-uhs) but can be distinguished by its thinner, more ribbed stems and more or less zygomorphic flowers. (meaning-Bi-laterally symmetrical flowers, or flowers with only one plane of symmetry, ie. mirror-image right and left-hand halves, but with different top and bottom halves (assuming the flower lies horizontally))

Disocactus: Lindley. 1845 (Wittia, Wittiocactus, Chiapasia, Pseudorhipsalis, Bonifazia)

Twelve species of fat-stemmed spineless epiphytes native to many Latin American Countries. Flowers small, tubular to expanded, red to yellowish or white. Three groups can be recognized: section Disocactus with red, tubular to expanded flowers, and section Wittiocactus, with straight, short tubular, unexpanded flowers, the flowers of both sections being pollinated by hummingbirds, and section Pseudorhipsalis (soo-do-rip-sa-lis), with whitish, expanded, bee pollinated flowers.

Heliocereus (hee-lee-oh-sehr-ee-uhs): (Berger) Britt. and Rose. 1909

Four saxicolous or epiphytic, extremely variable species from Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua. Stems flat to 3–4 angled, often spiny or hairy. Flowers funnelform, tube spiny or hairy, petals red, orange or purplish, rarely white. A large percentage of orchid cacti (Epiphyllums) have Heliocereus specious in their ancestry. The genus is hardly separable from Nopalxochia.

Hylocereus (high-loh-sihr-ee-uhs) (Berg.) Britt. and Rose. 1909

About 15 species widespread in Latin America. Stems clambering, triangular, more or less spiny. Fls.. usually large to very large, rarely small, nocturnal, the base usually spineless and with large overlapping scales, or rarely with small, separated scales and sometimes spiny (H. trigonus), petals usually white, rarely red (H. extensus, H. stenopterus).

Lymanbensonia: Kimn. 1984

A genus mainly differing from Rhipsalis by the presence of a floral tube over a centimeter long. The single species is terrestrial.

Nopalxochia (no-pal-ho-kee-a): Britt. & Rose. 1923 (Pseudonopalxochia, Lobeira)

A genus hardly separable from Heliocereus, from which it differs in its flattened stems and less spiny or hairy flowers.

Rhipsalis: Gaertner. 1788 (Acanthorhipsalis (uh-kan-thuh-rip-sal-us), Erythrorhipsalis (e-rith-ro-rip-sal-us), Hatiora, Lepisumium (lep-is-mee-um), Pfeiffera, Pseudozyggocactus (soo-do-zi-go-cactus), Rhipsalidopsis rihp-sal-ih-dohp-sihs))

About 75 species of pendent or creeping epiphytes from Mexico to southern South America, as well as from the tropics of the Old World. Stems flat to multi-ribbed, with or without spines or hairs. Flowers symmetrical (not zygomorphic), usually very small and yellowish-white, rarely to 2 cm long and reddish (R. rosea, R. gaertneri), fruits minute.

Schlumbergera: Lemaire. 1858 (Epiphyllanthus, Zygocactus)

Brazilian epiphytes with short jointed stems and long-tubed reddish, often zygomorphic (unsymmetrical) flowers.

Selenicereus (seh-lee-nuh-sih-ruhs): (Berg.) Britt. & Rose. 1909 (Cryptocereus (krihp-tuh-sih-ruhs), Deamia, Strophocactus (struh-fo-cactus))

A genus of some 10–20 species, widely distributed throughout Latin America from Texas to northern South America. Stems long and scandent, mostly many-ribbed (S. testudo, S. inermis, S. wittii) or flat and lobed (S chrysocardium, S. anthonyanus). Flowers small (S. innesii) to very large, nocturnal, funnel form, tube hairy, often spiny, petals white to yellowish.

Trichocereus (trihk-uh-sih-re-uhs) (Berger) Biccobono. 1909

A genus of some 40 species widely distributed in the Andes from Peru to Argentina. The stems are cylindrical and usually long, thick and spiny, while the large nocturnal flowers are white. All species are terrestrial except for T. arboicola, which is epiphytic in cloud forests. It is only distantly related to other epiphytic cacti. T. arboricola Kimm 1990. Bolivia. Stems eventually pendent, 2.5–4 cm thick, 9–11 ribbed, spiny. Flowers 12–13 cm long, opening 9–10 cm, petals white.

Weberocereus: Britt. & Rose. 1909 (Eccremocactus (ehk-ruh-moh-cactus), Werckleocereus)

A genus with very diverse stems—short and pendent or long and vining and flat to many-angled, but with similar, small, nocturnal, odd-smelling, bat-pollinated flowers. Some species are often included in Werckleocereus (3 angled stems) and Eccremocactus (flat-stems).

Care of Epiphyllums

SOIL: (From Rainbow Gardens)

A commercially packaged indoor plant mix, but it must be coarse and fast draining, this can be improved by adding some perlite, fine bark, pumice, or even small gravel. Avoid African Violet mix, has to much peat moss. For a home mix use: 1 part leaf mold, 1 part coarsely ground bark, 1 part 1\4"-1\2" redwood or fir bark, 1 part perlite (or horticultural pumice) you can also add 1\2 part horticultural charcoal. A commercially packaged camellia-azalea mix is a satisfactory substitute for leaf mold, as long as the mix is three parts organic matter and 1 part perlite or pumice. Rainbow Gardens does not use peat moss or vermiculite. For each cubic foot of mix add 1\2 cub bone meal.

Added note: In the "Cactus and Succulent Society of America's" Cactus and Succulent Journal Vol. 70 No. 1 January-February, 1998 there is a very extensive list of "Soil mixes for Epiphytic Cacti" on page 12

WATER: (From Rainbow Gardens)

Never let the mix of an established Epiphyllum dry out completely. Water thoroughly so that the water flows freely from the drain holes. Then allow the top 1\3 of the mix to dry before watering again. Clay pots dry out more quickly, plastic pots don't. Overwatering is more of a danger, so if you tend to gverwater stick with a clay pot. Their natural growth cycle is in the spring and again in the fall and of course need more water at this time. Plants usually rest after flowering and again during the winter months. If the plant looks a little wilted from the stress of producing flowers do not increase the water. This is a natural phenomenon and the plants will usually recover their plump look by fall. In winter give just enough water to keep moist.

LIGHT: (Rainbow Gardens)

Filtered sunlight or a few hours of morning or afternoon sun, but never direct noonday sun. They may be grown under a lath, a fully leafed tree, or near a window where they will get morning or afternoon sun. Plants can be put outdoors until the cold weather arrives, when they are brought back into the house put in an evenly cool, but not freezing room where lights are not turned on after sundown. They can be grown under fluorescent grow-lights. The distance from plant to light should be at least 10 inches. The amount of light should be 500 to 1000 foot candles. The length of time to which the plants are exposed to artificial light should correspond with the actual hours of daylight during each season of the year. This is essential for bud development. Yellowish or sunburned growth indicates the light is too strong. Weak spindly growth with no evidence of a strong mid-rib indicates the plants are not getting enough light.

TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY (Rainbow Gardens)

They are very adaptable plants, but prefer temperatures between 45–70 degrees Fahrenheit. They will tolerate extreme heat if they are well shaded and the humidity is kept up. They will tolerate temps. less than 32 degrees Fahrenheit for a few hours, but will freeze if exposed to freezing temps. for any length of time. They are susceptible to cold damage when the temps. drop below 40 degrees F. In the house they like an evenly cool location 45–50 degrees F. with no artificial light after sundown. Cool temp. and long nights are essential for bud formation.

They like 50% humidity, but will tolerate less, a gentle misting is beneficial during the dry summer months to keep the humidity up. They like free air movement, but not gusting hot or cold winds.

FERTILIZING: (Rainbow Gardens)

They need a balanced fertilizer such as 6–6–6 or 8–8–8 or 10–10–10 at least once a month starting in spring and ending in fall. Do not use a fertilizer too high in nitrogen (over 10%).

In order to promote blooms and harden off tender young growth for winter, fertilizer with a low nitrogen or no nitrogen, such as 0–10–10 or 2–10–10. This is used once at the end of February and again in early November. Plants receive no fertilizer in Dec and Jan

PESTS: (Rainbow Gardens)

Scale and mealybug, control with insecticide soap or spray them with 1\2 rubbing alcohol and 1\2 water. Snails and slugs love epiphyllums and can do a lot of damage, snail bait should be put out on a regular basis.

BLOOMS: (Rainbow Gardens)

Takes 2–3 years to raise a blooming size plant from a rooted cutting. Day bloomers start blooming in late April, peaks in May and ends in June. Night bloomers are in late summer and early fall.

REPOTTING: (Rainbow Gardens)

Wait until about a month after blooming season to repot the plant, unless there is suspect rot or root pests. Loosen the root ball slightly and shake off some of the old mix, repot using fresh mix, don't water for one week after repotting, water lightly for a month or so then put the plant back on a regular schedule.

PROPAGATION: (South Bay Epiphyllum Society)

Dip cutting in a rooting compound, let the cutting set in a cool shaded place for a week or more so the cut end will callus. Plant the cutting an inch or more into the potting mix so that an areole on each side is below the soil line. It is from theses areoles that new growth will start. The potting mix should be loose with enough coarse material to keep it from compacting and provide good drainage. After the cutting is potted up, do not water, until roots have formed, it cannot take up water without roots and it will rot. Withhold water for a week or two then mist or sprinkle lightly. Begin to water gradually when you are sure that roots have formed, do not let it dry out completely. If the cutting starts to rot, cut off the rotted area and start over again.

Care of other Epiphytic Cacti: (Rainbow Gardens)

Culture, mix and blooming period of the "less spiny" epiphytic cacti, rhipsalis ( blooms on 1–2 year old plants), chiapora, cryptocereus, disocactus. nopalxochia is the same as for epiphyllums. The "spinier" epiphytic cacti Heliocereus, Hylocereus, Selenicereus bloom during the spring and on up into early summer on 2–3 year old plants. They prefer a well drained soil and a little stronger light than epiphyllums.

Aporocactus-Their care is generally the same as Epiphyllums, but the soil needs to be more pourus It can tolerate strong sunlight. It blooms in the spring, on 1–2 year old plants, or the same as epiphyllums.

Thanksgiving (by US date) and Christmas cacti and Easter cacti

These thrive on a temp. of 50–70 degrees F. strong but indirect sunlight. They will do well outside in the summer hung in a tree but must be brought in before the temp. starts to drop in the fall. They will freeze if temps. drop below 32 degrees F. Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti bloom between these holidays and the Easter cacti blooms around Easter.

LIGHT: In habitat they grow at and altitude between 3000 and 5000 ft. they root in plant debris among the branches on decaying humus or on the ground in stony, shady places. They need bright but filtered light. If grown in the house keep away from a blast of a forced air furnace and away from the fireplace and cold drafts.

SOIL: A mix of 40% perlite and 50% peat moss (PH 5.0 to 6.0) is best.

WATER: In habitat, rainfall varies from 17 inches per month from Dec to March, to 3 inches a month in the dry season. They require moisture at all times. Let them dry out slightly between watering, but never let them go completely dry.

FERTILIZER: Once a month with 10–10–5. Christmas or Thanksgiving stop fertilizing (September) 1–2 months before the short day period (or light span less than 12 hours). Start again after blooming is over. Easter cacti feed all year long except during blooming period.

INDUCING BLOOMS: For Christmas or Thanksgiving cacti only, Easter cacti do not require this kind of treatment. Temp. method: Keep nighttime temps. around 55–60 degrees F. Anything above or below will result in only growth. Photoperiod method: Short night period (less than 12 hours) at temp. above 60 degrees F. will initiate flower buds. This should take 3–4 weeks. Using either method, once flower buds appear, resume normal growing habits. Cooler or higher temp. during any stage of bud formation will delay flowering an additional two to four weeks.

Additional note from cacti_etc: When new flower buds start to form, don't move the plant until the buds are near opening. If you move it when the buds are too small, they are likely to fall off.

Additional Info. Flowers that are white, yellow and pink will show color variations in their blooms if temp. drop below 50 degrees F. during any stage of the bud formation. Does not apply to Easter cacti.

Pests: Effected by snails or caterpillars. Do not use Diazinon, will cause stunting and distortion. For fungus rot use a good fungicide. Root mealy bug, submerge plant in Malathion until no more air bubbles are seen. Spotted branches or holes in branches is not uncommon, it is caused by uneven temps. Can only be prevented by growing in a perfectly controlled environment. It does not effect blooms.

Propagation: From stem cuttings may be done at anytime, but if done in winter it may require bottom heat 70 degrees F. Fert. after rooting has started 2–3 wks later. Pinch back in May or June to increase branching.

Bibliography

1. Cacti by Sir Oliver Leese, published by Triune Books, London, England 1973

2. Rainbow Gardens 1444 E. Taylor St. Vista, Ca. http://www.cactus-mall.com/rainbow_gardens/center.html

3. Jim Hunters' Epi Universe 'Night Blooming Cereus' http://www.epiuniverse.com/NightBloom.htm

4. Jim Hunters' Epi Universe 'Epiphytic Species http://www. epiuniverse.com/species.htm

5. Jim Hunters' Epi Universe 'What is an Epiphyllum? http://www.epiuniverse.com//whatis..htm

6. South Bay Epiphyllum Society, Palos Verdes, Ca. http://www.beachlist.com/epif/epi2.html

7. 'The Species of Epiphytic Cacti' by Myron Kimnach

8. 'The National Gardening Association Dictionary of Horticulture', Viking Press, Produced by The Philip Lief Group, Inc.

9. 'Hamlyn A–Z of Plant Names' by Allen J. Coombes, Chancellor Press, 1994

10. 'The Encyclopedia of Cacti' by Dr Willy Cullmann, Dr Erich Gotz, and Dr Gerhard Groner, Timber Press 1987.