Epiphyllum CuttingsBy Sue Haffner Reprinted from Cactus Corner News Who hasn't wanted to take cuttings of their favorite "orchid cactus'', either to propagate or to share? Their flowers are among the most gorgeous of the cactus family. Since you are supposed to cut back your epis every year, anyway, you might as well propagate some of the stems. All the experts maintain that you must allow the cuttings to harden off thoroughly. Place them on a paper towel or bag and let them dry in a shaded, dry place. A speaker years ago told our club that he let his epi cuttings harden off until they actually started to wrinkle before he planted them. It sounds radical, but he really meant it. Plant the cuttings in a clean, dry potting mix. The mix should hold moisture but drain quickly. One suggested recipe is 3 parts commercial potting soil with 1 part pumice. If you can't get pumice, you can substitute with perlite or bark chips (even broken-up styrofoam chips can work.) Plastic pots are preferable to clay, as they don't dry out as fast. The cuttings should be planted upside down-meaning that you should plant the small growing end of the cutting 1–2 inches deep in the soil. No more than two of the leaf “serrations'' should be below soil level. Any deeper planting then this can encourage rot. Some growers stake the cuttings to keep them upright. Put the pots in a bright, shaded place for at least a month. Do not water the cuttings right away. Mist them for several weeks. Wait a few weeks and water lightly; wait another week, then put the plant on a weekly watering schedule. After another month, you can move the plant to its permanent home. Keep an eye on the cuttings as they get adjusted to their new location. Remember that, after rooting, epiphyllums should not be allowed to dry out. They are rain forest cacti and need moisture. (The exception is in winter, when the plant is at rest.) If at any time it appears that a cutting is rotting (black rot at the base of the cutting where it meets the soil), gently remove the cutting and inspect it. If it has rotted, take a clean, sharp knife and remove the affected area. Harden this cutting off and begin the cycle again, taking care of water less than the first time. Watering epiphyllums: The rule in raising epis is to remember not to allow the roots to completely dry out. When you water during the spring, summer, and fall, make sure to water thoroughly so that water drains freely from the pot's drainage holes. Allow the top 1/3d of the soil to dry out before watering again. To determine this, use your finger to see if the top inch or so of soil is dry. If it is, then water them. If not, allow the soil to dry out a little more before watering. Orchid cacti have natural growth cycles during the spring and fall. During these seasons, their water requirements are greater than at other times of the year. Note that, after flowering, they go through a rest period due to the stress of producing flowers. The plants may appear a bit wilted, but do not become overly concerned and do not increase the amount of water. By the onset of fall, the plants should start regaining their plump, green appearance. During the winter months, water your plants just enough to keep them moist (top 1/3d of soil somewhat dry). Also during winter, to encourage heavy flowering next year, epiphyllums require at least two to three weeks of cool temperatures. This means placing them in an unheated spare bedroom, garage, or other location. Make certain that they still receive filtered light wherever you place them. The best temperature range for flowering is 40–45 degrees F. Source for epi varieties: If you are looking for specific epis, hybrids or species, here is a source: Gray/Davis Epiphyllums, 10648 Palm Row Dr, Lakeside CA 92040; send $3.00 for a full-color catalog.
|